Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection SPF 50 PA+++ Anti-Glycation Primer

image from chantecaille.com

I was on the market for a pure chemical sunscreen after the pure physical sunscreen I was using made my face break out something terrible.  To get an idea about the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens just click HERE

Anyhoo. I figured that I would try the Chantecaille Sunscreen not only because it was all Chemical sunscreen but also because it was also an anti-glycation primer for the skin.  

What's anti glycation?

Well to begin with, we need to learn about Glycation.

Glycation happens when the naturally occurring sugar molecules in the skin bond to a protein or lipid molecule without the controlling action of an enzyme.  That results in impairing the functioning of biomolecules, which in skin, serves to weaken the structure at a cellular level, leading to a less firm surface and a greater tendency towards wrinkling.  In other words. It makes you look O-L-D.  So an ANTI-Glycation product would help stop that Glycation process and in turn slow down that aging process and make you look younger.  WIN!

OK. But what good is an anti-glycation primer if the sunscreen that comes with it is not photostable. Right?  Well according to Chantecaille the sunscreen contains comprehensive UV protection: SPF 50 for UVB and PA+++ for UVA.  The formula contains a combination of three highly effective, stabilized, non-penetrating screens: Avobenzone, Octisalate, Octinoxate.

OK. BUT

According to skinacea.com how photostable Avobenzone is depends on the OTHER ingredients mixed in the formula.  According to their website, if the sunscreen contains avobenzone, check to see if there is octinoxate. Avobenzone is already unstable, but it can become even more unstable when combined with octinoxate. Avobenzone, however, can be stabilized with octocrylene or other UV filters.  If the sunscreen has avobenzone, octinoxate, and some other UV filter besides octocrylene, then your sunscreen may be photostable, but to what extent is unknown. Other UV filters (besides octocrylene) can stabilize avobenzone as well, but it seems like octocrylene is one of the better known stabilizers.  Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection SPF 50 PA+++ Anti-Glycation Primer does NOT contain octocrylene.  The addition of Octisalate to the Avobenzone and Octinoxate may or may not be photostable.  That means it may or may not actually protect you against UVA and UVB sun damage once you are actually exposed to the sun.

Hopefully the above isn't as confusing as it sounds!

Chantecaille also states that their Ultra Sun Protection SPF 50 PA+++ Anti-Glycation Primer contains cherry blossom, lemon balm, and white tea extracts which deliver powerful anti-inflammatory properties, protecting DNA from free radicals. It also contains Carnosine, which is a well-known anti-glycation ingredient. 

According to Chantecaille The oil-free primer/sunscreen is supposed to smooth the skin and control oil-breakthrough and shine throughout the day.  That may be the case for Slightly oily skin. but for someone like me, with excessive oily skin this primer did nothing to help with controlling oil. Not one bit.

In fact, the texture of this product was slippery and almost greasy feeling.  The product is a very thin liquid. It comes in a tube, but has a mixer ball, and needs to be shaken before use.  I really like thinner type sunscreens, so I was encouraged when I started to use it.  This also applies clear so there is no white cast to contend with like with other sunscreens that have a physical sunscreen in it.  However, it took a long time to dry/set on my face before I could apply foundation. It never felt like it fully dried, and my normally oily skin showed no signs of less oil production or less oil breakthrough.  At times I felt that my skin got oily sooner when I wore this product. I did not find it water and humidity-resistant as described on the Chantecaille website.  I also did not find this product to extend the life of my foundation because my skin got so oily using it, my foundation slipped off before 3PM. 

I used the entire tube up in less than three months. That's pretty fast. I used it every day to cover my face, neck and chest. anything that remained I used on the backs of my hands.   I did, however see added benefits from the anti-glycation properties of this product. My skin felt softer and smoother when I used it and over time it showed signs of slowing down fine line development. It also left my skin feeling smoother even after I washed it off for the day. So the anti-glycation properties were fairly good.

Do you NEED this?  Well at $85 for a 1.3 oz /40ml tube and the fact that the photostability of the sunscreen is in question, I say No. For someone who may not spend a lot of time in the sun and does not have oily skin this could be a great anti-aging makeup primer but I would not rely on it to give you proper sun protection.

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Ingredients: C12-15 Alkl Benzoate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate, Polymethysilsequioxane, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Glycerin Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Pentylene Carnosine, Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Prununs Yedoensis Leaf Extract, Cyclodextrin [Citronellol, Geraniol, Eugenol, Citral, Farnesol, Linalol]  Active Ingredients: Ethylhexyl Methoxcinnimate 7.5% (Octinoxate), Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5% (Octisalate), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3% (Avobenzone)